Posts Tagged ‘Photography’

[Photography] – Light Painting cars – 3rd time’s the charm!

Sunday, February 28th, 2010

Friday night after game night with the boys, I stopped off at a park in Redmond to attempt another attempt at light painting. It was raining, so the ground was nice and wet. Of course, no sooner than I had set up the camera a King County sheriff came flying up the road and pulled into the parking lot across the street. The cop had enough sense of humor to let me setup all my lights and camera gear first, before driving up and turning on the disco lights *WHILE* I was taking my picture and telling me that I’m not allowed to be in the park after dark (even though there were no posted signs). I desaturated the colors so I won’t get the amber hazard lights in my shots here:

Spirit_of_Adventure

Next night I went to a dog park up on Aurora. Last year I dated this girl, whose roommate can be charitably described as “socially maladjusted and less than pleasant to be around”. In an attempt to ease relationship a bit I tried a little bit of “BBQ diplomacy” by hosting a small BBQ and inviting her (the roommate) along. Well, the BBQ diplomacy failed – some people are just difficult and mean in nature – but I did get something positive out of that afternoon. The photographer in me realized that the parking lot had no street lights and thus would be a low-ambient place for light painting cars…

Here’s an ambient light only, 90 second exposure to give you an idea how dark the place is:

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(The flash had slid off the hotshoe adapter, and thus refused to fire. It took me about a minute or so before I can get it reset, and by then I decided to stop the exposure to get a baseline.

Here’s with the SoftLighter up high:

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And a bit of lightroom tweak:

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For the most part I’m pretty happy with how these shots turned out. Moving forward, these would be the things I would try:

* Add a neutral density filter to the camera to further knock down the ambient
* Up the firepower of the strobes, probably to something along the lines of an Alien Bee
* Use a proper large softbox, to achieve more even lighting.
* Come equip with a better power source – maybe time to DIY a Li-Ion vagabond pack?
* Try flooding the asphalt to create a smoother surface for reflections.

By adding a neutral density filter, I should be able to find more places to be able to shoot from.

[Photography] – More light painting cars

Thursday, February 25th, 2010

So, after reviewing the shots from my previous exercise, I decided to make a few tweaks.

Andy’s hacked LED flashlight (the man stuck an 18650 Li-Ion cell inside a $2.99 keychain LED flash. God that thing is bright) worked pretty decently in the previous light painting exercise, so I figured I’d up the fire power. Ran to Harbor Freight during lunch and picked up a 1 million candlepower flashlight for $12.99.

First try was to set the camera’s white balance to tungsten (since that’s what flashlights are), camera on a tripod, f/8, ISO100, bulb mode, and lock the shutter open in a dark room. For the sake of learning, I painted one side of the car at a time:

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Here’s the front of my car

And the sides:

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And here’s the combined shot:

Lighting_Mazda5-3

There is some spillage of the light cone. Basically the parabolic reflector throws a pretty tight beam spot, but there’s some secondary reflection / refraction off the front lens cover that’s lighting up stuff I don’t care to light up.

A quick trip to the mail room for an envelope or two, and a bit of packaging tape, solved that problem:

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Results:

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Next, I set up my Photek softlighter with the secondary diffuser, and hoisted it up high on my light stand. I really need a sturdier stand, or something with a counterweight to help hold this up. By lighting from up high, I am hoping to eliminate the hot spot on the bodywork. Something to do with family of angles and stuff. :-) .

Lighting_Mazda5-5

HEY! This is pretty good. Of course, a softbox is kinda like a shotgun approach to lighting, but at least there’s a choke in this shotgun barrel.

One thing to note (if you zoom in on the original) is that the light stand holding up the Photek Softlighter is visible in the shot. It’s being back-lit by the softlighter, and shows up as black lines in the reflections in the window.

I fixed this by installing the diffuser the “wrong” way. Normally I don’t do this, as it eliminates the ability to tilt the softlighter and blocks off the flash’s controls, but for what I’m doing here, it solved my problem nicely:

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I moved the car to shoot the driver’s side. While there, I also popped just the hazard lights by themselves, to give an idea of their contribution independently in the final image:

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With the “gimpy” configuration on the softlighter, I retry the overhead lighting:

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Not bad, but the sides are a bit dark. By the way, the strobe is at M1/16 and I’m firing 2-3 shots per second while slowly walking down the side of the car. Essentially turning my 60″ photek into a virtual, 8ft x 60″ strip lighting softbox. That’s powered by 4x AAs :-)

Another shot, this time using a 70-200 for a tighter crop and less background clutter:

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Looking nice. Need to do something about lighting the front surfaces though.

Here, after lighting the top and across the hood, I walked sideways across the front and held the softbox out to the side, aiming straight at the car.

Lighting_Mazda5-9

Ooops, ended up in the camera’s field of view. The edge of the photek lights up from secondary bounce; so I have to be extra careful. The next time around I’m going to try to find a proper softbox, and probably put a cardboard grid on it to control the spread more.

Now that I have a better understanding, I reshoot the sequence, being mindful to stay outside the camera’s field of view at all times with the side firing softbox:

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Straight out of camera, vantage point 1

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Straight out of camera, vantage point 2

To get the camera low enough for the second shot, I twisted the Manfrotto tripod around like a pretzel:

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And with a bit of editing in Lightroom:

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The only mistake? I got into the car to flick on the hazards, HID lights and fog lights. The suspension reacted accordingly, so there is a mismatch where the side turn indicator lit up, versus where the indicator lamp sat during nominal exposure. Nuts.

I think I’m at the point where I’ve outgrown this warehouse – the white walls really distract from the final image, but it offered me a nice, warm and dry place to practice my light painting. By the way, here’s a behind the scene shot of the “studio”:

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Total time: About 3 hours, after work, for about 20 images. And a lot of head scratching.

Now, I need to location scout for an outdoor place that’s got low ambient light…

[Photography] – Light painting cars

Wednesday, February 24th, 2010

Work had been kicking my butt lately – between 60hr work weeks, and having to deal with Mom coming home (and thus having to divert time and resource to straighten up the house), I just have not had the time to work on projects or shoot.

So, when I found out that there’s an empty warehouse I have access to, I took the opportunity to do some car light painting. It’s very hard to find a place where I can (mostly) control my ambient lighting to light paint a car.

Here’s my “weekend car”, the Spirit of Adventure, named after the airship in Pixar’s “Up”. (My coworker’s daughter commented that I reminded her of Russell… and I plan on taking this car on multiple photography adventures in the years to come, so I figured it’d be a fitting name). She’s a 2009 Mazda Premacy / Mazda5 Grand Touring with HID headlights and a few high tech refinements in the works.

Spirit_of_Adventure

With the overhead florescents on, we are looking at about a 3 second exposure at f/11 @ ISO 100.
Of course, this gives us a picture of a car in an empty warehouse. Hardly exciting.

Next, I turned the garage lights off, and walked around the car popping an AlienBees Ring Flash at 1/32 power at the car. Just a real quick multi-pop job. The diffuser is on the ABR.

Spirit_of_Adventure-2

Ringflashes, with a diffuser, is really good at throwing light EVERYWHERE. And I mean, EVERYWHERE. Aside from reflecting in ugly splotches on my car’s body work, it lit the entire warehouse up.

Next, i tried using my Photek Softlighter with the ABR. This gives me better control over the bounce. Unfortunately, the ABR’s umbrella adapter attachment is really badly designed, and the umbrella collapsed under its own weight. By some miracle the ribs collapsing onto the unit didn’t shatter the flash tube (the ABR actually belongs to my ex-girlfriend, whom I haven’t seen since our breakup – and I still would like to be friends with this girl…). Needless to say, the umbrella came off after that.

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And just to see what a ring flash from the camera’s perspective would look like, here’s the ABR800 @ full power, single shot:

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Note the tale-tale ring of shadow on the wall behind the vehicle.

Frustrated, I knew that I could create a nice big and soft light source by firing the ABR at full power at one of the white walls. This lit my car evenly. It also lit the rest of the warehouse evenly.

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Then it dawned on me to try a different light painting technique – with a flashlight. I grabbed one of the LED flashlights off a coworker’s desk, and gives it a try. (I really need to redo this with a bigger throughput flashlight, but for now I’m working with what I’ve got).

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Hey! Not bad! I should put a lens hood-like device on the flash light to prevent spill from the flashlight from being picked up by the lenses. During this exposure I also got into the car and flicked on the headlights and hit the hazard lights briefly – thus the fog lights and such being on. I also made a point to hover a bit longer at the wheels with the LED flashlight to make the wheels pop more.

Note the significantly longer exposure – the LED flashlight is pretty weak sauce, compared against an ABR800, even at 1/32 power. The ambient sodium vapor light coming in through the skylight above the door is really making its presence known on the wall behind the car, as is just ambient streetlight that’s coming through the blinds.

Spirit_of_Adventure-9

Tried another shot – this time I kept the flashlight relatively steady and slowly walked down the side of the car, being mindful of the specular highlight on the bodywork as the light traces its way down the panels. (Note to self – avoid the door handles next time – they tend to reflect light all sorts of wierd way). Again, same trick with the hazards – this time I used my keyless entry to get the lights to flash.

Finally, some adjustments and cropping in Lightroom, to give the following images:

Spirit_of_Adventure_LR

A tight crop, with the “psychotic” lighting lines down the side”

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And a “safe” shot.

For my next series, I’m going to try to light from a higher vantage point (bring a ladder). Better nail this with my Mazda and my Honda before I go grab MikeZ’s EVO-X …

[Engineering] – Bullet Flight Sensor, Systems Integration

Friday, January 22nd, 2010

Quick status update on the bullet flight sensor. This is heading into systems integration testing next, where I’ll be firing up each section of the circuit and making sure it all works. Missing is the break beam sensor that I put a air rifle round through by accident :-)

Electronics-001

Note the “unusual” arrangement with the pocket wizard. The “hot shoe adapter” is actually plugged into the sensor to simulate a camera’s hotshoe firing the pocket wizard.

[Photography] – Food Photography

Tuesday, January 19th, 2010

Yesterday, I went to my first meetup with the Seattle Food Styling and Photography Group. I bought along my strobist setup and a couple of noodle dishes as my contribution to the event. Here are some of the pictures.

The first picture was shot in collaboration with Michael Clinard and Kate Hailey, both local Seattle Photographers. Mike is also a lighting tech and production assistant, and wants to try something a little bit unconventional. We ended up using a fill, a snoot for dramatic effect, and a soft fill from my Photek softlighter. You can see a setup shot here:

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Here we are building the shot:

First, the snooted 580EXii. (This is the FalconEyes strobe attachment kit, from Shumshuipo, Hong Kong).

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Next, we fire just the key light

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And here we have the contribution from the fill.

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Taken all together, we have the following image:

FoodMeetup-005

Snooted flash is at M1/4
Main key is at M1/8
Fill flash is at M1/16
Exposure was ISO100, 1/160sec and f/5.6, on an EF50mm f/1.4USM.

After a little bit of tweaking in LightRoom, I have the following image:

FoodMeetup-006

Then it occured to me while chimping reviewing my shots that something didn’t look quite right. I pretended to sit down to the meal and immediately realized that, while the chopsticks placement is cool… it’s completely impractical. Before the noodles soak up too much beef broth, I rearranged the chopsticks and got this:

FoodMeetup-010

By the way, I learned something interesting – apparently this is the Chinese way of place setting. Japanese would place the chopsticks closer to the diner, going across the bottom of the placemat, with the handle side facing right, and Koreans would do the same, but across the top instead of the bottom. I’ll file that away under misc trivia.

While the lights are still setup, I went for a few other shots from different angles:

FoodMeetup-011

And my typical “Circle cropped” framing, with a close in detail on the ingredients.

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In case anyone’s wondering, the veggie is a baby bokchoy. I used my sashimi knife to slice it down the middle, splitting all the leaves evenly, then parboiled it in beef consomme, left over from cooking the sukiyaki beef. One can imagine just how sharp that sashimi knife is. It’s my pride and joy, and I hand-hone it on traditional Japanese waterstones, just like samurai blades of the old, then finish it with 5 micron honing abrasive to a mirror edge on the blade. It can slice a ripe tomato to 1mm (0.040″) slices.

The next dish is my udon dish with kameboko, fish dumplings and sukiyaki beef, in a bonito broth (courtesy of Kikkoman company :) ).

Here, I just chose a more simple and traditional lighting setup, with a twist. I really want to capture the steam coming off the bowl of noodles. I reasoned that the tightly snooted flash firing across the top of the bowl would probably light the steam nicely. Lighting consisted of a shoot through umbrella camera left as my key light and a bounced flash off the ceiling for fill.

Since there is only a very short time period between when the boiling hot broth being poured into the bowl to when the noodles stop steaming, I set up the camera on a tripod and prefocus everything, then used the cold noodle dish for my lighting test. Here’s the results of the test.

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Then the hot bonito stock is poured in. You can see some steam, but it’s lost in the background clutter.

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Unhappy with that shot, I unmounted the camera and fired freehand:

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Then came the task of splitting up the food and feeding the fellow photogs. The other serving was saved for dinner tonight. Still very yummy :-)

[Engineering] – Bullet flight sensor – circuit design

Sunday, January 17th, 2010

Continued work on the bullet flight sensor electronics. Dad had suggested that I research a “monostable vibrator” circuit, and to look at the 555 timer IC, so after some tinkering and math, here’s my first draft circuit diagram:

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Dad (a retired electrical engineer) had given it his blessing, so the next step up would be physically prototyping it. Looks like I’ll be placing an order with DigiKey or Jameco or some other online electronics component vendor.

While the circuit components are enroute – and they will be breadboarded up first – I’m going to try my hand at learning Eagle, a CAD design software. The circuit is simple enough that I can probably etch it myself using laser transfer paper, but I might also just job it out to someone like BatchPCB.com and deal with it that way. It’ll all depend on the mechanical fabrication lead time as well as other project loads.

Meanwhile, mechanical design needs to be refined a little bit. These are current CAD model screenshots:

Bullet_Switch_Assembly.PartialDisassembly

Here the unit is partially disassembled to change batteries.

Bullet_Switch_Assembly.Top

Here’s a top view looking straight down on the circuit card, with the detector barrel rendered transparent.

Bullet_Switch_Assembly.ISOMETRIC

And finally an isometric view of the unit assembled.

Mechanical details for the battery contacts, as ewell as lead-in for the slots, needs to be integrated. Then it’s a matter of generating a file to drive Dave’s grandparent’s laser engraver to cut these acrylic parts!

W00t, can’t wait! :-)

[Photography] – w00t! Image sale!

Thursday, January 14th, 2010

w00t!

Some guy in France just licensed one of my images for a post card!

In case anyone is wondering, he’s doing a small run of 250 post cards. I licensed the image – which had already sold 2 copies at an art show – for $0.10 per use. My art’s audience are impulse-buyers, and in this economy discretionary spendings is quite low. For the profit margin that a post card can generate, $0.10 per post card seems reasonable. Now I can say I’m a published photographer. (Hah).

Besides, the image had already been released into creative commons under BY-CC-ND anyway, so it has, IMHO, little commercial value. And it was really cool that he asked, instead of ripping the image off on Flickr.

Here’s the image in question:

Space Needle and Pacific Science Center

It’s already the screen background for some local Mac developer :-)

[Engineering] – More bullet sensor validation testing

Wednesday, January 13th, 2010

Tonight, I did more engineering validation testing of the IR breakbeam sensor mentioned in the previous article.

First, the setup. The sensor is securely mounted in my benchtop vise, with a phone book propped up behind the bullet path as a pellet trap. (Finally, a good use for those dead-tree edition phone books!). A regulated DC power supply is used to provide the power to the sensor module, and my oscilloscope is used to monitor the signal line. As before, we set the oscilloscope to trigger on a falling edge signal at a level close to DC Bus -.

Blogged at: http://www.TerenceTam.com
Blogged at: http://www.TerenceTam.com

(I need to get my garage sale O-Scope probes checked. They don’t seem to be reading the voltage right, but at least the signal generator test indicates a good test pattern. Probably something stupid I forgot to set in the software. I’m still learning how to use this thing).

Next, I set the oscilloscopes time scale to 100 nanoseconds per division. Yup, definitely picking something up! That’s a good sign. Rechecking at 1 microsecond per division shows a fairly clean signal.

Blogged at: http://www.TerenceTam.com
Blogged at: http://www.TerenceTam.com

To give Dad a good idea of what he’s engineering to, I need to take some measurements of the pulse width of the event. We’ve previously calculated about 18.3 microseconds for a round ball at 1000fps. (Note that we actually don’t know how fast the air rifle is shooting at, nor is the pellet perfectly round.)

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Look at that! 20 microseconds. Love it when the calculations matches real life data.

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The next shot clocked in at a mere 5 microsecond pulse. There could be 2 reasons: A) the angle of the flight path through the sensor might be changing, or I might be nicking the beam differently. Still, the oscilloscope clearly captures a 5ms pulse.

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Another shot, this time generating a 10ms pulse.

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Yet another 5ms pulse again – followed by a lot of electrical noise. That’s strange…

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Looks like the round nicked the sensor housing. Yeah, that would explain the sensor noise.

Remarkably the sensor still works. Putting the gun aside, I grabbed the soldering iron sponge and started dripping water past the IR beam. It registers on the O-Scope! (translation – this can be used for those awesome water-drop shots!)

Finally, here’s a couple of pellets recovered from the phone book. Love how you can see the rifling marks on the pellets :-) .

Blogged at: http://www.TerenceTam.com