[Life Update] – Still alive

This was a triumph,
I’m making a note here…
HUGE SUCCESS!

Okay, fine, all kidding about malfunctioning, evil AIs aside … I’m still alive :-P .

It’s been a heck of a year.

I’ve had my heart broken. Badly.

I branched out from my usual routine and haunts and joined a sports team:

Testing new watermarking feature in Lightroom 3

I had a chance to go on a business trip to Hong Kong, and visit the Expo in Shanghai:

青馬大橋 - Tsing Ma Bridge
上海外灘 - The Bund
浦東新區  - PuDong New Area
Spanish pavillion
IMG_2804.jpg

I’ve spent waaaaaaay too much time in Beaverton, OR:

Crowne Point Reattempt

I even managed to go shooting with my old photo buddies, Allen, and DaveM:

lightning0001

I’ve made a bunch of new friends, and survived a boating trip without barfing:

IMG_8380.jpg
IMG_8610.jpg
IMG_8435.jpg
IMG_9010.jpg

I got to shoot some cool planes at airshows:

USAF Thunderbirds - Reflection pass
Lancaster!
Airship Pirates
IMG_3809.jpg
IMG_4420.jpg

And a very cool car too:

Bad ass

And, to top it off, I met a really awesome girl:

Me and Rachel

[PHOTO CREDIT: Dave Mathiesen - www.DaveM.com]

They say one of the hardest things about a relationship is being able to grow together in a relationship *and* still maintain one’s individual identity and space. Certainly, this blog had gotten quite neglected with all the major changes going on in my life; even though in the back of my mind, I knew I should be updating this. Certainly, this blog entry here is hopefully a step in the right direction; after all, we do have a saying in Chinese that “Journey of a Thousand Miles starts with a single step”.

Wouldn’t it be ironic that if this blog, started to keep my mind off a bad breakup, ends up being a cornerstone of a healthy, lasting relationship…

[DIY] – 3D Camera Rig

I’ve really been lagging on my blogging. Here’s a quick update.

I’ve recently found myself working out of the Beaverton office again, so late one night after finishing up I hopped onto the company’s aging, crusty lathe:

Machining stainless

These are custom captive screws for the Benro quick-release plates I picked up in Hong Kong. I’m mounting the Benro plates to a piece of 8020 1010 extrusion, and the T-slots are a little bit deeper than an ISO standard camera mount. So, for my application, a custom screw would be needed.

I’m actually pretty happy with how this turned out; the machine is old and the hand-ground parting tool isn’t the best for cutting stainless steel.

To chuck the screw into the chuck without damaging it, I took a page from an old machinist trick of slotting a nut with a hacksaw and clamping it in a 3-Jaw chuck. I started with a 1/4-20 x 0.5″ SAE button head socket cap screw.

(Note: Yes, I am aware that the standard tripod thread is a 1/4-20 British Standard Whitworth – cut with a 55 deg angle instead of a 60 deg angle. I challenge the reader to find one here in a hardware store in the good ol’ USA. A 60 deg SAE thread is “close enough” for this application with some very minor interference)

The resultant screw is a bit too long, so I trimmed it down a little bit with my motor tool.

Trimming the screws

The tool is a Taiwanese made version of the Foredom – a 600W motor on a flex shaft and a foot pedal for actuation. It takes all the standard Dremel accessories and it’ll slice through stainless pretty easily. I lined the jaws of my Wilton vice with some engineering paper scrap, and used my pano clamp as a clamping base for the tripod plate. Then, using another machinist’s trick, I put a nut on each of the screws to be cut. When removing the nut, the nut acts as a tap and cleans out any debris on the screw threads and restores the proper thread form. :-)

And BTW – at 20,000+ RPM and with 600W of power behind the disc – any slip up is … painful. Warning: somewhat graphic picture ahead:

Ouch

The wound looks A LOT worse than it actually is. I think the heat from the abrasive blade cauterized the wound – it didn’t bleed much. Digging all the abrasive grit out under running water was a different story – good reminder to be more careful the next time.

And here’s the finished rig! Now, I need to order some 3D glasses…

3D Camera rig

[Life Update] – On the road again…

Okay, it’s been far too long since I’ve gotten an update up here. Work had managed to eat away almost all my spare time. Between work, frisbee, and, okay, the occasional LAN Party with the college chums (I *did* get into Starcraft II Beta…) I haven’t really had a lot of time to work on projects. Certainly being in Oregon 5 out of the last 7 weeks didn’t help.

Be prepared for a bunch of photo posts, interlaced with the occasional IT and Engineering rambling :-) . Feel free to leave me some comments on my posts :-)

-=- Terence

[Photography] – Sports Photography 101

So, a coworker today asked me for advice on shooting her kid’s baseball games. I had just shot my ultimate team’s first game, so I thought I’d share out some advice here.

First the technical details:

I dual wielded my EF70-200mm f/2.8L IS on my EOS 5D MkII and a EF100-400mm f/4.5-5.6L IS on a EOS40D. Both cameras were set to aperture priority, f/5.6 on the 70-200 and f/8 on the 100-400. Both cameras were set to ISO400, AI Servo Focus, camera back button focus, and continuous shoot mode. In the case of the 40D, the faster of the 2 modes was selected, at 6.5fps. Local to Seattle, day rentals can be had from Glazers Rentals, located downtown near the Space Needle.

Tip #1: Don’t be afraid to break the ISO100 barrier.

Four years ago when I brought my first DSLR in the form of a previously loved Rebel XT, I kept the ISO setting strictly at ISO100, and if I’m adventurous, ISO200. Higher ISO noises were an issue, by the time ISO800 came around, the image was pretty noisy. Today’s modern DSLR sensors fair much better at higher ISOs; ISO 1600 is perfectly usable from my 5D2 and a properly lit ISO400 shot is pretty clean, even on my 40D.

Higher ISO allows for a much faster shutter speed, for freezing action. This is especially useful for consumer-level lenses, which often don’t have the same max aperture as a professional telephoto prime.

2010_Spring_Young_Grasshoppers_Game10028

The shot above was shot at F/5.6 on my 70-200mm f/2.8L IS; at ISO400, the exposure time was 1/2000 of a second. If I were shooting at ISO100, this would have been a 1/500 second exposure; there would be motion blur given how fast the players are moving.

Tip #2: Situation awareness – and keep shooting

Once, while shooting skateboarders, a skateboarder lost control and sent the skateboard flying 6″ past my head. I could hear the whizzing of the ball bearings as I ducked, but kept shooting anyway. I got some kick-ass angles. :-) .

2010_Spring_Young_Grasshoppers_Game10086

Here, one of my teammates almost tripped and fell. I just kept backing up and held the trigger finger down. Miraculously, this shot came out focused; pretty much straight out of camera too. It’s nice not being the “fat kid with the camera that someone took out” on my first game :-) .

Tip #3: It’s a digital camera. The “film” gets cheaper the more you shoot.

It’s pretty much a probability game with skills tossed into the equation. Bring a large capacity memory card or two, and don’t be afraid to rapid fire. My 40D was set to 6 frames per second continuous mode; and I shot about 500 shots in the hour that we were playing. Don’t bother checking the shots at the field; that’s what a computer and a good cup of beverage is for afterwards.

Paying attention to where the action is, and conditioning myself to just fire short, controlled bursts, netted me these shots:

2010_Spring_Young_Grasshoppers_Game10089
2010_Spring_Young_Grasshoppers_Game10097
2010_Spring_Young_Grasshoppers_Game10036

Tip #4: Tell a story – include foreground subjects

Every picture should tell a story, right? People’s reactions to what’s going on in the field is often priceless.

2010_Spring_Young_Grasshoppers_Game10025

Tyler and Brandon staring at just how much air some people can get, in disbelief.

2010_Spring_Young_Grasshoppers_Game10006

An opposing team’s player looking at an affectionate couple on our team.

Tip #5: Capture the moment “2 heartbeats before”

I have an autobiography of Shunsaku Tamiya, president of Tamiya Models. In it, he talked about a discussion with a master sculptor responsible for the clay figures used to model the Tamiya miltary model line’s soldiers. The old master said that he always pictures a moment he wants to convey, then imagine what the soldier is doing 2 heartbeats before that moment, and model that. By doing so, a great sense of motion and flow is captured, with the audience’s imagination filling in the rest.

Well, having that camera on 6fps rapid fire, really helps with that :-)

2010_Spring_Young_Grasshoppers_Game10098

Jessica and Julie charges in, determined, as an opposing team player prepares to “alligator” the frisbee.

Tip #6: Don’t forget the losing team

I should point out that with the exception of maybe 3 people, almost all of us on Team Young Grasshoppers are complete newbies at team sports. A few of us had never touched a frisbee. Therefore, it was considered quite a feat not coming home with a big goose egg going up against an experienced team with 4 seasons under their belt.

The following picture was taken after my team scored our very first point. The team members were slightly out of reach of my 70-200 on my 5D2, but the opposing team’s expression as they “walked the walk” was quite a camera worthy moment:

2010_Spring_Young_Grasshoppers_Game10022

Looking at their expressions, you’d almost think that we gave them a solid butt-kicking :-)

Tip #7: Capture the team spirit

Good sportsmanship and team spirits is why we play to have fun, right?

2010_Spring_Young_Grasshoppers_Game10032
2010_Spring_Young_Grasshoppers_Game10027
2010_Spring_Young_Grasshoppers_Game10002

Tip #8: Get the individual player shots

I got some great portraits of our teammates when they were getting “in the zone” before the game while lined up:

2010_Spring_Young_Grasshoppers_Game10009
2010_Spring_Young_Grasshoppers_Game10010
2010_Spring_Young_Grasshoppers_Game10013

And in case anyone wonders what I look like trying to catch a frisbee, it’s probably something along these lines:

Terence catching a frisbee. :-)

:-)

Have fun!

[Photography] – The great Hybrid-DSLR Meetup

`Work had me in Southern California this week, performing some first article inspections on some SLA master patterns and cast urethane molds. I took advantage of the plane ticket to visit family and friends in the area, and found out that Phillip Bloom and Mitch from Planet5D.com are hosting a Hybrid DSLR meetup in Venice Beach.

Hybrid DSLRs, for those unfamiliar with them, are the latest evolution in photojournalistic tools. They allow the filming of video, often in hi-def, on a digital SLR body. Because of the large sensor size, large pixel site, and often resolution reduction employed to generate the 1080p frames, the image quality on the video is often much less noisier than what can be squeezed out of a high end video camera. Also, inherent with the use of a DSLR body for shooting video is the ability for these bodies to change lenses and maintain good control over depth of field.

This means that for the first time, indy film-makers can chase that shallow DOF film look without the use of expensive lighting trucks and 35mm film cameras. Although the movement is in its infancy, a small industry is springing up around this class of cameras (and as an enterprising engineer, I am wondering what I can do to grab a slice of that pie). There is also a very strong DIY movement too for the less affluent film makers.

Here are some of the rigs present at the meetup:

HDSLR0008

Here’s your most basic HDSLR rig. Virtually everyone shooting video does so by manually pulling focus, so an LCD hood is pretty essential. This is a Zacuto Z-Finder hood – and quite frankly after playing with all the options out there, you really get what you pay for. These retail for $299 – not cheap – about the cost of an inexpensive prime – but the magnified LCD fills one’s field of view and really allows one to pull focus.

The Zacuto comes with a die-cut VHB adhesive backed mounting flange that sticks onto the back of the LCD. Once stuck there, it can be removed, at the expense of breaking the flange. New flanges are $20.00.

As much of a fan as I am in DIYing; this is something that I’ll have to buy if I choose to go this route. I simply do not possess the optical engineering skills to design something like this.

In this particular case, some sort of directional mic with a windsock is attached to the hotshoe.

HDSLR0011
HDSLR0010

Moving onto looking at pull-focuses: here’s the DFocus pull focus system is designed by aerospace engineer David Aldrich in his free time. My kinda guy! :-) . At about $150.00 it’s the cheapest pull-focus system out there. Since I don’t have regular access to a mill, I will have to buy one of these systems as well. Might as well support the little guy. Jag35.com carries these.

HDSLR0014

Here’s another option for focus monitoring while pulling focus. This gentlemen is mounting a portable LCD monitor to a hotshoe to miniball head adapter. There are modifications out there to put a sunscreen on the LCD as well so that it is daylight readable. This particular LCD monitor was purchased on Planet 5D forum group buys and comes from some generic factory in China.

HDSLR0015
HDSLR0023

On the other extreme end, ViewFinder LLC demonstrated their fly-by-wire radio controlled pull focus system. A RF link between the control module here drives a servo-motor setup. If you have to ask, you probably can’t afford it. That system costs more than my 5D Mk II – for the pull focus alone.

HDSLR0024

The rest of ViewFinder LLC’s stuff is equally … well crafted. See those silver connectors? Those are LEMO connectors. Swiss made, precision medical grade connectors. Idenitfy those as such publicly, and the engineer who designed that system will size you up and see how good our engineering skillz are. These guys also build accessories for the Red Camera folks – so they are doing some very high end work. All their support cages are billet CNC machined.

HDSLR0022

A really cool feature of ViewFinderLLC is their remote video start switch, positioned near the user’s thumb in the grip setup above. Apparently, on the 5Dii, putting it in 2 second timer mode, and configuring the live view screen to video only will start the video recording if the “shutter release” IR signal is received from a Canon RC1 remote unit. Now I’ll have to find a RC1 and a way to reverse engineer that IR signal…

Here are a few more of the big boy rigs:

HDSLR0017

Most of these rigs consists of a pair of rails, onto which the camera body, lens adapter / DOF adapter, lens, pull focus system, and a matt box system to control flare mounted on a pair of 15mm rails. Stainless and carbon fiber are the material of choice here for building these rigs. Kinda like expensive Legos, I imagine. Actually, the only thing expensive about these rigs is the machining. Everyone is billet CNCing the clamps, when an extrusion tool would be cheaper. No one thinks that an extrusion tool is worth the effort to do, and the MOQ on an extrusion is high. On the other hand – by CNC machining the parts, the costs are kept high, so it locks out the more budget-conscious folks. Talk about a Catch-22 situation.

HDSLR0015
HDSLR0013

Closeup of the battery reveals it to be a generic Li-Ion pack. That I certainly can build…

HDSLR0019

Here’s a home-made camera stabilizer, using copper pipes, washers for weight, and a Traxx monster truck universal joint for the swivel. It’s very twitchy, as far as stabilization goes. I am not sure if this is a design path that I want to go down; I’m going to try a silicone grease dampened design first.

HDSLR0018

Another great rig, featuring a rifle stock and a Zacuto finder again. These Zacuto units are quite popular.

HDSLR0004

Here’s Hunter’s slide rail system. This allows the camera to slide laterally during a shot. This particular system uses TGP (Turned Ground and Polished) steel rails with an oil filled bronze linear bearing. It slides really smoothly.

Slider rail

Here’s Yaro’s version of the same thing. I asked him if it was DIYed and he gave me a strange look. Turns out someone online builds them and sells ‘em. I pointed out that they were all stock 8020 extrusion parts.

For those interested; the parts in questions are:

1020 extrusion piece (base rail – avail up to 140+” long)

Slider (linear bearing) appears to be part # 6535.
This section of the 8020 catalog has all the linear slider components, along with the replacement UHMW inserts for the bearing slides, for those of you going the DIY route.

While we are on the subject of camera slides and camera dollies, here’s a hack to convert an IKEA shelf piece into a camera dolly track system:

In the DIY spirit, here’s a 3D photo / video system, rocking twin 7Ds with nifty fifties. Note the use of the 80/20 profiles for spacing the cameras:

HDSLR0002

There as so much gear floating around, even carrying my “full combat load” I honestly felt like an iPhone shooter at a UW garage shoot. So it was refreshing to finally see someone with *JUST* a 5D Mk II :-)

HDSLR0009

And finally, the overhead cam group shot:

HDSLR0003

A big thanks to Phillip Bloom for putting it together and Planet5D for helping to spread the word!

[Photography] – The great Hybrid-DSLR Meetup

Work had me in Southern California this week, performing some first article inspections on some SLA master patterns and cast urethane molds. I took advantage of the plane ticket to visit family and friends in the area, and found out that Phillip Bloom and Mitch from Planet5D.com are hosting a Hybrid DSLR meetup in Venice Beach.

Hybrid DSLRs, for those unfamiliar with them, are the latest evolution in photojournalistic tools. They allow the filming of video, often in hi-def, on a digital SLR body. Because of the large sensor size, large pixel site, and often resolution reduction employed to generate the 1080p frames, the image quality on the video is often much less noisier than what can be squeezed out of a high end video camera. Also, inherent with the use of a DSLR body for shooting video is the ability for these bodies to change lenses and maintain good control over depth of field.

This means that for the first time, indy film-makers can chase that shallow DOF film look without the use of expensive lighting trucks and 35mm film cameras. Although the movement is in its infancy, a small industry is springing up around this class of cameras (and as an enterprising engineer, I am wondering what I can do to grab a slice of that pie). There is also a very strong DIY movement too for the less affluent film makers.

Here are some of the rigs present at the meetup:

HDSLR0008

Here’s your most basic HDSLR rig. Virtually everyone shooting video does so by manually pulling focus, so an LCD hood is pretty essential. This is a Zacuto Z-Finder hood – and quite frankly after playing with all the options out there, you really get what you pay for. These retail for $299 – not cheap – about the cost of an inexpensive prime – but the magnified LCD fills one’s field of view and really allows one to pull focus.

The Zacuto comes with a die-cut VHB adhesive backed mounting flange that sticks onto the back of the LCD. Once stuck there, it can be removed, at the expense of breaking the flange. New flanges are $20.00.

As much of a fan as I am in DIYing; this is something that I’ll have to buy if I choose to go this route. I simply do not possess the optical engineering skills to design something like this.

In this particular case, some sort of directional mic with a windsock is attached to the hotshoe.

HDSLR0011
HDSLR0010

Moving onto looking at pull-focuses: here’s the DFocus pull focus system is designed by aerospace engineer David Aldrich in his free time. My kinda guy! :-) . At about $150.00 it’s the cheapest pull-focus system out there. Since I don’t have regular access to a mill, I will have to buy one of these systems as well. Might as well support the little guy. Jag35.com carries these.

HDSLR0014

Here’s another option for focus monitoring while pulling focus. This gentlemen is mounting a portable LCD monitor to a hotshoe to miniball head adapter. There are modifications out there to put a sunscreen on the LCD as well so that it is daylight readable. This particular LCD monitor was purchased on Planet 5D forum group buys and comes from some generic factory in China.

HDSLR0015
HDSLR0023

On the other extreme end, ViewFinder LLC demonstrated their fly-by-wire radio controlled pull focus system. A RF link between the control module here drives a servo-motor setup. If you have to ask, you probably can’t afford it. That system costs more than my 5D Mk II – for the pull focus alone.

HDSLR0024

The rest of ViewFinder LLC’s stuff is equally … well crafted. See those silver connectors? Those are LEMO connectors. Swiss made, precision medical grade connectors. Idenitfy those as such publicly, and the engineer who designed that system will size you up and see how good our engineering skillz are. These guys also build accessories for the Red Camera folks – so they are doing some very high end work. All their support cages are billet CNC machined.

HDSLR0022

A really cool feature of ViewFinderLLC is their remote video start switch, positioned near the user’s thumb in the grip setup above. Apparently, on the 5Dii, putting it in 2 second timer mode, and configuring the live view screen to video only will start the video recording if the “shutter release” IR signal is received from a Canon RC1 remote unit. Now I’ll have to find a RC1 and a way to reverse engineer that IR signal…

Here are a few more of the big boy rigs:

HDSLR0017

Most of these rigs consists of a pair of rails, onto which the camera body, lens adapter / DOF adapter, lens, pull focus system, and a matt box system to control flare mounted on a pair of 15mm rails. Stainless and carbon fiber are the material of choice here for building these rigs. Kinda like expensive Legos, I imagine. Actually, the only thing expensive about these rigs is the machining. Everyone is billet CNCing the clamps, when an extrusion tool would be cheaper. No one thinks that an extrusion tool is worth the effort to do, and the MOQ on an extrusion is high. On the other hand – by CNC machining the parts, the costs are kept high, so it locks out the more budget-conscious folks. Talk about a Catch-22 situation.

HDSLR0015
HDSLR0013

Closeup of the battery reveals it to be a generic Li-Ion pack. That I certainly can build…

HDSLR0019

Here’s a home-made camera stabilizer, using copper pipes, washers for weight, and a Traxx monster truck universal joint for the swivel. It’s very twitchy, as far as stabilization goes. I am not sure if this is a design path that I want to go down; I’m going to try a silicone grease dampened design first.

HDSLR0018

Another great rig, featuring a rifle stock and a Zacuto finder again. These Zacuto units are quite popular.

HDSLR0004

Here’s Hunter’s slide rail system. This allows the camera to slide laterally during a shot. This particular system uses TGP (Turned Ground and Polished) steel rails with an oil filled bronze linear bearing. It slides really smoothly.

Slider rail

Here’s Yaro’s version of the same thing. I asked him if it was DIYed and he gave me a strange look. Turns out someone online builds them and sells ‘em. I pointed out that they were all stock 8020 extrusion parts.

For those interested; the parts in questions are:

1020 extrusion piece (base rail – avail up to 140+” long)

Slider (linear bearing) appears to be part # 6535.
This section of the 8020 catalog has all the linear slider components, along with the replacement UHMW inserts for the bearing slides, for those of you going the DIY route.

While we are on the subject of camera slides and camera dollies, here’s a hack to convert an IKEA shelf piece into a camera dolly track system:

In the DIY spirit, here’s a 3D photo / video system, rocking twin 7Ds with nifty fifties. Note the use of the 80/20 profiles for spacing the cameras:

HDSLR0002

There as so much gear floating around, even carrying my “full combat load” I honestly felt like an iPhone shooter at a UW garage shoot. So it was refreshing to finally see someone with *JUST* a 5D Mk II :-)

HDSLR0009

And finally, the overhead cam group shot:

HDSLR0003

A big thanks to Phillip Bloom for putting it together and Planet5D for helping to spread the word!

[Prototyping] – Something you don’t see every day – an SLA machine in action

Now here’s something you don’t see everyday: an SLA machine in action.

SLA0001

The machine in question is a 3D Systems Viper high resolution unit. I used a long exposure on a tripod to capture the actual laser beam tracing the part; the laser is a diode pumped solid state Nd:YVO4 100mW laser. For those of you unfamiliar with how SLA process works, it works like this:

1) A computer solid model is sliced into thin slices, between 0.002″ to 0.003″ thick. All the newer machines are 0.003″ or better in Z-resolution.

2) A laser then traces the cross section in a vat of photopolymer. Okay, by photo-polymer, I mean, a vat of very expensive goo – where the laser touches the goo, the goo turns into plastic. How expensive? I’ve heard that when it first came onto the market, resins were about $5000 – $6000 per gallon. They have since came down in price, but suffice to say it’s a very expensive proposition.

3) After each layer is formed, the platform in the tank drops by a build layer thickness and the goo flows over the part, readying the next layer to be drawn.

4) At the end of the build the platform gets raised again and the goo drains off the part, leaving you with a solid object.

These are very expensive machines – starting price of one of these is in the quarter-million dollar range, and the laser only lasts so many hours before it has to be replaced. Needless to say, unless you’re keeping the machine *very* busy, just the depreciation would eat you alive.

[Photography] – Light Painting cars – 3rd time’s the charm!

Friday night after game night with the boys, I stopped off at a park in Redmond to attempt another attempt at light painting. It was raining, so the ground was nice and wet. Of course, no sooner than I had set up the camera a King County sheriff came flying up the road and pulled into the parking lot across the street. The cop had enough sense of humor to let me setup all my lights and camera gear first, before driving up and turning on the disco lights *WHILE* I was taking my picture and telling me that I’m not allowed to be in the park after dark (even though there were no posted signs). I desaturated the colors so I won’t get the amber hazard lights in my shots here:

Spirit_of_Adventure

Next night I went to a dog park up on Aurora. Last year I dated this girl, whose roommate can be charitably described as “socially maladjusted and less than pleasant to be around”. In an attempt to ease relationship a bit I tried a little bit of “BBQ diplomacy” by hosting a small BBQ and inviting her (the roommate) along. Well, the BBQ diplomacy failed – some people are just difficult and mean in nature – but I did get something positive out of that afternoon. The photographer in me realized that the parking lot had no street lights and thus would be a low-ambient place for light painting cars…

Here’s an ambient light only, 90 second exposure to give you an idea how dark the place is:

BatchUpload-5

(The flash had slid off the hotshoe adapter, and thus refused to fire. It took me about a minute or so before I can get it reset, and by then I decided to stop the exposure to get a baseline.

Here’s with the SoftLighter up high:

BatchUpload-9

And a bit of lightroom tweak:

BatchUpload-10

For the most part I’m pretty happy with how these shots turned out. Moving forward, these would be the things I would try:

* Add a neutral density filter to the camera to further knock down the ambient
* Up the firepower of the strobes, probably to something along the lines of an Alien Bee
* Use a proper large softbox, to achieve more even lighting.
* Come equip with a better power source – maybe time to DIY a Li-Ion vagabond pack?
* Try flooding the asphalt to create a smoother surface for reflections.

By adding a neutral density filter, I should be able to find more places to be able to shoot from.