Archive for January, 2010

[Hotlinks] – Cool stuff this week (2010.01.17 -> 2010.01.23)

Sunday, January 24th, 2010

Engineering:

Mujahid Abdulrahim at the University of Florida has an SAE white paper on the sports of drifting:

Same dude also has 1000fps footage from a Phantom High Speed camera of Mini-Z racers crashing on YouTube. What a cool guy.

TechRestore has a cool series of stop-motion photography of various gadgets being unboxed, disassembled and reassembled. Here’s one of the iPhone 3GS going under the knife. They have a behind the scenes look at how these are done here.

Tormach CNC has a really innovative tool in beta – combining a USB microscope with a CNC mill. It’s part vision based CMM, part machine setup tool. The last part is key – you can reverse engineer a part, and machine a new part using the same tool to setup / reference features already on an existing part.

Food:

Garett Kern, of Garett’s Table, has a totally out of this world take on the classic Peanut Butter and Jelly Sandwich.

Food Pairing is an awesome website for exploring different food pairing options.

[Engineering] – Bullet Flight Sensor, Design Validation Testing

Saturday, January 23rd, 2010

Successful night at Tam Labs tonight! :-)

Tonight, the goal was to test the breadboarded prototype of the bullet flight sensor’s electronics. Remember – I am a mechanical engineer; this is a completely new foray into the world of electronics for me, aside from some simple “hook a solid state relay to a microprocessor and bit bang some code to turn on the rice cooker” projects. So even though this may seem like kindergarden EE stuff, it’s a fairly big leap for me, design wise; I’m no longer relying on the ability to clobber code and instead using discrete logic ICs and doing actual calculations and setting RC time constants, etc.

We begin with the breadboarded model:

Electronics-001

And our setup in the lab:

P1000377

On the bench is a trusty oscilloscope to look at the signals at different lines, a DC power supply set to 5V, 100mA current limit, and a signal generator. The signal generator won’t be used for this project here.

First, I verified that the *new* sensor is working – the last one had a round put through it by accident:

Blogged at: http://www.TerenceTam.com

Next, I verified that the 555IC is getting the power that it needs. Turns out that the power rails aren’t fully connected all the way. A bit of poking with an ohm-meter fixed that. Now I am ready to insert my test points:

P1000378

And trip the break-beam sensor, with my gimpy fingers:

Blogged at: http://www.TerenceTam.com

Orange line, or Ch1, is my sensor’s output. It goes from High to Low when the beam is broken. The turquoise line, or Ch2, is my 555’s trigger output. It goes from low to high when the input pulse is received. That’s a VERY promising sign.

My fat butter fingers can only move so fast through a 10mm opening, so the event scrolls off the oscilloscope’s screen. I tried dropping a small machine screw through the opening, but that actually prove to be much harder than expected (don’t laugh!). Frustrated, I finally came up with the following idea:

P1000376

By flexing the rubber ducky antenna on one of my pocket wizards and getting it to spring through the break-beam sensor gap, I can generate a quick enough blip from the sensor:

Blogged at: http://www.TerenceTam.com

Each major division is 5 milli-second on this setting, so the rubber ducky antenna is only in the beam’s path for about 10mS. My fingers can’t move *that* fast, for sure :-)

Repeating the test again a few times, got me the same result:

Blogged at: http://www.TerenceTam.com

Note that irregardless of the pulse length from the sensor, the 555’s output always sits at about 35ms. This is a litte bit off from the design goal of 40ms (1/250 second shutter speed, or sync speed on a 1.6x crop camera), but close enough for government work. I attribute the difference in component value tolerances on setting the RC constant.

Now the final test – does the output from the 555 trip the SCR to fire the strobe and pocket wizard?
(I selected an SCR instead of a cheaper / more common transistor. The SCR is rated to 400V, so even an older, high voltage “digital camera killer” flash will work on this sensor. )

And…

*drum roll please*

Nothing happened.

Turns out the same bug that bit me on the 555 timer bit me again. The top and bottom half of the power bus on this breadboard is not connected, and the SCR wasn’t grounded properly because of that. Now, plugging in a pocket wizard, this is what I get (with Ch2 now monitoring the anode of the SCR):

Blogged at: http://www.TerenceTam.com

Interesting, it seems to add a bit of noise to the sensor output line. But the characteristic beep of the PW firing can be heard as the beam is broken. (Note that the sync voltage of the pocket wizard is only 3V or so).

Plugging in the 580EXii:

Blogged at: http://www.TerenceTam.com

Again, some electronic noise on the sensor line, but we got what we need out of it – the clean voltage drop that triggers the monostable multivibrator.

And here’s the happy camera dork with his new toy (click link for video:)

Test firing bullet flight detector switch

Now that the circuit is verified working, I am okay with releasing the resources to order the acrylic for laser cutting to form the chassis, as well as starting PCB layout. Stay tuned… :-)

[Engineering] – Teaser

Friday, January 22nd, 2010

Any guesses what this will become? :-)

Electronics-002

(Leave a comment, with contact information, if you really want to know ;-) ).

-=- Terence

[Engineering] – Bullet Flight Sensor, Systems Integration

Friday, January 22nd, 2010

Quick status update on the bullet flight sensor. This is heading into systems integration testing next, where I’ll be firing up each section of the circuit and making sure it all works. Missing is the break beam sensor that I put a air rifle round through by accident :-)

Electronics-001

Note the “unusual” arrangement with the pocket wizard. The “hot shoe adapter” is actually plugged into the sensor to simulate a camera’s hotshoe firing the pocket wizard.

[DIY] – Photo Chemical Machining

Friday, January 22nd, 2010

An old joke, from my college days:

“Do you know how you tell the difference between a Chem student and a Physics student?”
“The Chem student washes his hands *BEFORE* he goes to the bathroom”.

There’s some truth in that statement, especially with regards to corrosive chemicals…

Tonight I decided to give the toner transfer photomachining process another go. The toner transfer material is from PulsarFX and purchased from DigiKey Corp along with the rest of my electronics components for the bullet flight sensor and … some other projects.

First, I did up the “photo mask” in Adobe Illustrator. Since the toner side is face-down on the etch surface, I do a “transform – flip” operation to mirror the text:

Blogged at: http://www.TerenceTam.com

Top to bottom are: plain paper proof of the printout, plain paper proof of the inverted mask, and the actual mask itself, on the toner transfer paper. At a buck something per sheet, it’s advisable to do a plain paper proof every step along the way :-)

The toner transfer paper works by heat and pressure. They sell a unit for doing this, but I am not about to spend a few hundred bucks on a special laminator. So I liberated the clothes iron and set it to linens, and tried my hand at ironing on the transfer:

PrinterCart-004

Well, bummer. I had cleaned the brass piece with my Festool random orbital sander with 220 grit sand paper. Turns out a brillo pad works better.

If at first you don’t succeed, try, try again, and try harder:

PrinterCart-005

My Dad would call this “paying tuition”.

After playing around with different methods of applying pressure, I finally got something good:

PrinterCart-006

And a piece promptly flake off as I start blotting the workpiece dry. (the paper is dextrin coated, and releases after sitting in water a little bit, kinda like a water-slide decal).

After about 45 minutes in the ferric chloride (yeech!) etch tank, this is what I managed. Not acceptable, but at least I have an idea that the system works. Kinda. The etching is about 0.2mm deep. The design intent had been to sand to the black (raised) border, then fill the inside etched area with an ink, leaving the brass text raised against a black background. The piece would then be matted into a framed artwork along with the panorama being presented.

(For now, I’m just going to stick to my wax seal and signature, thank you very much.)

PrinterCart-007

(This is “R&D”. Failures are not unexpected; what’s important is documenting how things failed, and learning from it.)

[Home Improvement] – Printer Cart Update

Friday, January 22nd, 2010

Here’s the printer cart, finished! It’s a quick hack job, but it’ll do for now.

PrinterCart-Finished

The printer is an Epson 4000 that had been previously loved. Purchased off Craigslist non-operational for $150, I spent a few months taking it apart and cleaning out the ink clogs, then converted it to run on bulk ink.

One day I’m going to blog up the CIS conversion and custom color profiling. Soon ™.

[Home Improvement] – Printer Cart

Wednesday, January 20th, 2010

Tonight I wrapped up my printer cart. I needed something more stable than the Home Depot saw horses to hold my lovingly restored and hacked Epson 4000, but didn’t feel like spending $400-500 for the Epson offering for a printer that I only paid $150 for.

The other alternative would have been to buy an IKEA cabinet and put casters on it; however, IKEA furniture is designed for the rest of the world in metric. Normally, this doesn’t pose a problem, but at A2 size (nearest US equivalent, 17″x22″ paper) the drawers that IKEA makes are just 1/2″ too short to fit 17″x22″ ANSI C paper. Since I have a bit of photo paper in that size, IKEA cabinet wouldn’t work either.

Besides, I have some shop grade maple ply that I need to use up, so that I can finish cleaning up the other half of the garage and free up parking spot #2.

First, as with all custom design work, I start by throwing together a Solidworks model:

Printer_Cart_Assembly

Then, I generate my cut list using Solidworks. Nothing fancy – I just have a blank assembly with 2 48″ x 96″ rectangles drawn in an empty sketch. I toss all the components of the shelves that I’m building into the assembly and manually tile the parts until they fit. (BTW, the screenshot shows an error. There is no way to actually *cut* those 4 shelving pieces with a circular saw. Prime example of how CAD tools in the hands of a newbie can lead to parts being designed that cannot be built!)

Cut_List

The plywood was cut using a Festool Plunge cut saw. These are one of the few tools that I had bought a little while ago and I consider it to be a life-time investment. Many sheets of aluminum, plywood and plastic for various prototypes, shelves, and furniture pieces have passed under those blades over the years.

Next, I cut the 32mm spaced pegs for putting shelving in.

PrinterCart-001

The router sits on a sled that slides down a Festool guide rail. This particular guide rail had a detent slot routed into it on 32mm centers. The magic of these rails is you can get these sliding clamps that slide down an inverted C channel in the rail to clamp it to the plywood securely.

PrinterCart-004

Using inch based measurement and mixing in 32mm system has its challenges. (For one, the instruction with the Festool attachment leaves a lot to be desired…). Since the design is asymmetric, there’s plenty of chances for screw-ups.

PrinterCart-002

This is a sign that someone is sleep deprived! Thank goodness I haven’t drilled for the casters yet. That will now be my bottom piece :-) (By some fluke in design, the top and side pieces are all equal size).

Next came the joinery part. I used the Festool domino tool to put in my joints. The tool works by using a proprietary (read: expensive as hell) carbide end mill in a reciprocating action to mill a rectangular slot into the wood. A beech flat dowel, called a “domino” is then inserted into the slot. In practice, it’s lead to a lot of frustration to get things to align properly. I need to build a better fixture or something.

PrinterCart-005
PrinterCart-006

Finally, glue-up.

PrinterCart-007

Alternate angle view here:

PrinterCart-008

I’ve never been really good at carpentry. I don’t do enough of it to get better, and the typical rushed nature of the stuff I do (“crap, I need a box to put this printer on – and I’ve got a print order to fill later this week”) leaves a lot to be desired. Hopefully one day I’ll be able to change that.

[Photography] – Food Photography

Tuesday, January 19th, 2010

Yesterday, I went to my first meetup with the Seattle Food Styling and Photography Group. I bought along my strobist setup and a couple of noodle dishes as my contribution to the event. Here are some of the pictures.

The first picture was shot in collaboration with Michael Clinard and Kate Hailey, both local Seattle Photographers. Mike is also a lighting tech and production assistant, and wants to try something a little bit unconventional. We ended up using a fill, a snoot for dramatic effect, and a soft fill from my Photek softlighter. You can see a setup shot here:

FoodMeetup-008

Here we are building the shot:

First, the snooted 580EXii. (This is the FalconEyes strobe attachment kit, from Shumshuipo, Hong Kong).

FoodMeetup-002

Next, we fire just the key light

FoodMeetup-003

And here we have the contribution from the fill.

FoodMeetup-004

Taken all together, we have the following image:

FoodMeetup-005

Snooted flash is at M1/4
Main key is at M1/8
Fill flash is at M1/16
Exposure was ISO100, 1/160sec and f/5.6, on an EF50mm f/1.4USM.

After a little bit of tweaking in LightRoom, I have the following image:

FoodMeetup-006

Then it occured to me while chimping reviewing my shots that something didn’t look quite right. I pretended to sit down to the meal and immediately realized that, while the chopsticks placement is cool… it’s completely impractical. Before the noodles soak up too much beef broth, I rearranged the chopsticks and got this:

FoodMeetup-010

By the way, I learned something interesting – apparently this is the Chinese way of place setting. Japanese would place the chopsticks closer to the diner, going across the bottom of the placemat, with the handle side facing right, and Koreans would do the same, but across the top instead of the bottom. I’ll file that away under misc trivia.

While the lights are still setup, I went for a few other shots from different angles:

FoodMeetup-011

And my typical “Circle cropped” framing, with a close in detail on the ingredients.

FoodMeetup-012

In case anyone’s wondering, the veggie is a baby bokchoy. I used my sashimi knife to slice it down the middle, splitting all the leaves evenly, then parboiled it in beef consomme, left over from cooking the sukiyaki beef. One can imagine just how sharp that sashimi knife is. It’s my pride and joy, and I hand-hone it on traditional Japanese waterstones, just like samurai blades of the old, then finish it with 5 micron honing abrasive to a mirror edge on the blade. It can slice a ripe tomato to 1mm (0.040″) slices.

The next dish is my udon dish with kameboko, fish dumplings and sukiyaki beef, in a bonito broth (courtesy of Kikkoman company :) ).

Here, I just chose a more simple and traditional lighting setup, with a twist. I really want to capture the steam coming off the bowl of noodles. I reasoned that the tightly snooted flash firing across the top of the bowl would probably light the steam nicely. Lighting consisted of a shoot through umbrella camera left as my key light and a bounced flash off the ceiling for fill.

Since there is only a very short time period between when the boiling hot broth being poured into the bowl to when the noodles stop steaming, I set up the camera on a tripod and prefocus everything, then used the cold noodle dish for my lighting test. Here’s the results of the test.

FoodMeetup-013

Then the hot bonito stock is poured in. You can see some steam, but it’s lost in the background clutter.

FoodMeetup-014

Unhappy with that shot, I unmounted the camera and fired freehand:

FoodMeetup-016

Then came the task of splitting up the food and feeding the fellow photogs. The other serving was saved for dinner tonight. Still very yummy :-)

[Engineering] – Bullet flight sensor – circuit design

Sunday, January 17th, 2010

Continued work on the bullet flight sensor electronics. Dad had suggested that I research a “monostable vibrator” circuit, and to look at the 555 timer IC, so after some tinkering and math, here’s my first draft circuit diagram:

scan0001

Dad (a retired electrical engineer) had given it his blessing, so the next step up would be physically prototyping it. Looks like I’ll be placing an order with DigiKey or Jameco or some other online electronics component vendor.

While the circuit components are enroute – and they will be breadboarded up first – I’m going to try my hand at learning Eagle, a CAD design software. The circuit is simple enough that I can probably etch it myself using laser transfer paper, but I might also just job it out to someone like BatchPCB.com and deal with it that way. It’ll all depend on the mechanical fabrication lead time as well as other project loads.

Meanwhile, mechanical design needs to be refined a little bit. These are current CAD model screenshots:

Bullet_Switch_Assembly.PartialDisassembly

Here the unit is partially disassembled to change batteries.

Bullet_Switch_Assembly.Top

Here’s a top view looking straight down on the circuit card, with the detector barrel rendered transparent.

Bullet_Switch_Assembly.ISOMETRIC

And finally an isometric view of the unit assembled.

Mechanical details for the battery contacts, as ewell as lead-in for the slots, needs to be integrated. Then it’s a matter of generating a file to drive Dave’s grandparent’s laser engraver to cut these acrylic parts!

W00t, can’t wait! :-)

[Hotlinks] – Cool arduino projects

Thursday, January 14th, 2010

It’s no secret that flying had always been a childhood dream of mine, and that I’ve wanted to combine flying models and my photography skills to do some aerial photography. Here are links to some DIY flying machines that people have built.

They belong to a class of flying machines called quadcopters – made only possible with recent advances in MEMS electronics (specifically, accelerometers, electronic gyros, and microprocessors). These are classic examples of fly-by-wire machines where a computer evaluates the flying conditions thousands of times per second and provides mid-course corrections, while a human pilot tells the computer where he or she wants to go.

http://aeroquad.info/bin/view
- an Arduino-based quad-copter, built from Align 600-series helicopter tail booms, brushless motors and propellers. An Align T-Rex600’s landing skid provides lander support.

http://quaduino.org/
- Another Arduino quad copter. Looks like a custom airframe.