[DIY] – 3D Camera Rig

July 20th, 2010

I’ve really been lagging on my blogging. Here’s a quick update.

I’ve recently found myself working out of the Beaverton office again, so late one night after finishing up I hopped onto the company’s aging, crusty lathe:

Machining stainless

These are custom captive screws for the Benro quick-release plates I picked up in Hong Kong. I’m mounting the Benro plates to a piece of 8020 1010 extrusion, and the T-slots are a little bit deeper than an ISO standard camera mount. So, for my application, a custom screw would be needed.

I’m actually pretty happy with how this turned out; the machine is old and the hand-ground parting tool isn’t the best for cutting stainless steel.

To chuck the screw into the chuck without damaging it, I took a page from an old machinist trick of slotting a nut with a hacksaw and clamping it in a 3-Jaw chuck. I started with a 1/4-20 x 0.5″ SAE button head socket cap screw.

(Note: Yes, I am aware that the standard tripod thread is a 1/4-20 British Standard Whitworth – cut with a 55 deg angle instead of a 60 deg angle. I challenge the reader to find one here in a hardware store in the good ol’ USA. A 60 deg SAE thread is “close enough” for this application with some very minor interference)

The resultant screw is a bit too long, so I trimmed it down a little bit with my motor tool.

Trimming the screws

The tool is a Taiwanese made version of the Foredom – a 600W motor on a flex shaft and a foot pedal for actuation. It takes all the standard Dremel accessories and it’ll slice through stainless pretty easily. I lined the jaws of my Wilton vice with some engineering paper scrap, and used my pano clamp as a clamping base for the tripod plate. Then, using another machinist’s trick, I put a nut on each of the screws to be cut. When removing the nut, the nut acts as a tap and cleans out any debris on the screw threads and restores the proper thread form. :-)

And BTW – at 20,000+ RPM and with 600W of power behind the disc – any slip up is … painful. Warning: somewhat graphic picture ahead:

Ouch

The wound looks A LOT worse than it actually is. I think the heat from the abrasive blade cauterized the wound – it didn’t bleed much. Digging all the abrasive grit out under running water was a different story – good reminder to be more careful the next time.

And here’s the finished rig! Now, I need to order some 3D glasses…

3D Camera rig

[Life Update] – On the road again…

June 16th, 2010

Okay, it’s been far too long since I’ve gotten an update up here. Work had managed to eat away almost all my spare time. Between work, frisbee, and, okay, the occasional LAN Party with the college chums (I *did* get into Starcraft II Beta…) I haven’t really had a lot of time to work on projects. Certainly being in Oregon 5 out of the last 7 weeks didn’t help.

Be prepared for a bunch of photo posts, interlaced with the occasional IT and Engineering rambling :-) . Feel free to leave me some comments on my posts :-)

-=- Terence

[Photography] – Sports Photography 101

March 16th, 2010

So, a coworker today asked me for advice on shooting her kid’s baseball games. I had just shot my ultimate team’s first game, so I thought I’d share out some advice here.

First the technical details:

I dual wielded my EF70-200mm f/2.8L IS on my EOS 5D MkII and a EF100-400mm f/4.5-5.6L IS on a EOS40D. Both cameras were set to aperture priority, f/5.6 on the 70-200 and f/8 on the 100-400. Both cameras were set to ISO400, AI Servo Focus, camera back button focus, and continuous shoot mode. In the case of the 40D, the faster of the 2 modes was selected, at 6.5fps. Local to Seattle, day rentals can be had from Glazers Rentals, located downtown near the Space Needle.

Tip #1: Don’t be afraid to break the ISO100 barrier.

Four years ago when I brought my first DSLR in the form of a previously loved Rebel XT, I kept the ISO setting strictly at ISO100, and if I’m adventurous, ISO200. Higher ISO noises were an issue, by the time ISO800 came around, the image was pretty noisy. Today’s modern DSLR sensors fair much better at higher ISOs; ISO 1600 is perfectly usable from my 5D2 and a properly lit ISO400 shot is pretty clean, even on my 40D.

Higher ISO allows for a much faster shutter speed, for freezing action. This is especially useful for consumer-level lenses, which often don’t have the same max aperture as a professional telephoto prime.

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The shot above was shot at F/5.6 on my 70-200mm f/2.8L IS; at ISO400, the exposure time was 1/2000 of a second. If I were shooting at ISO100, this would have been a 1/500 second exposure; there would be motion blur given how fast the players are moving.

Tip #2: Situation awareness – and keep shooting

Once, while shooting skateboarders, a skateboarder lost control and sent the skateboard flying 6″ past my head. I could hear the whizzing of the ball bearings as I ducked, but kept shooting anyway. I got some kick-ass angles. :-) .

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Here, one of my teammates almost tripped and fell. I just kept backing up and held the trigger finger down. Miraculously, this shot came out focused; pretty much straight out of camera too. It’s nice not being the “fat kid with the camera that someone took out” on my first game :-) .

Tip #3: It’s a digital camera. The “film” gets cheaper the more you shoot.

It’s pretty much a probability game with skills tossed into the equation. Bring a large capacity memory card or two, and don’t be afraid to rapid fire. My 40D was set to 6 frames per second continuous mode; and I shot about 500 shots in the hour that we were playing. Don’t bother checking the shots at the field; that’s what a computer and a good cup of beverage is for afterwards.

Paying attention to where the action is, and conditioning myself to just fire short, controlled bursts, netted me these shots:

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Tip #4: Tell a story – include foreground subjects

Every picture should tell a story, right? People’s reactions to what’s going on in the field is often priceless.

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Tyler and Brandon staring at just how much air some people can get, in disbelief.

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An opposing team’s player looking at an affectionate couple on our team.

Tip #5: Capture the moment “2 heartbeats before”

I have an autobiography of Shunsaku Tamiya, president of Tamiya Models. In it, he talked about a discussion with a master sculptor responsible for the clay figures used to model the Tamiya miltary model line’s soldiers. The old master said that he always pictures a moment he wants to convey, then imagine what the soldier is doing 2 heartbeats before that moment, and model that. By doing so, a great sense of motion and flow is captured, with the audience’s imagination filling in the rest.

Well, having that camera on 6fps rapid fire, really helps with that :-)

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Jessica and Julie charges in, determined, as an opposing team player prepares to “alligator” the frisbee.

Tip #6: Don’t forget the losing team

I should point out that with the exception of maybe 3 people, almost all of us on Team Young Grasshoppers are complete newbies at team sports. A few of us had never touched a frisbee. Therefore, it was considered quite a feat not coming home with a big goose egg going up against an experienced team with 4 seasons under their belt.

The following picture was taken after my team scored our very first point. The team members were slightly out of reach of my 70-200 on my 5D2, but the opposing team’s expression as they “walked the walk” was quite a camera worthy moment:

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Looking at their expressions, you’d almost think that we gave them a solid butt-kicking :-)

Tip #7: Capture the team spirit

Good sportsmanship and team spirits is why we play to have fun, right?

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Tip #8: Get the individual player shots

I got some great portraits of our teammates when they were getting “in the zone” before the game while lined up:

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And in case anyone wonders what I look like trying to catch a frisbee, it’s probably something along these lines:

Terence catching a frisbee. :-)

:-)

Have fun!

[Photography] – The great Hybrid-DSLR Meetup

March 10th, 2010

Work had me in Southern California this week, performing some first article inspections on some SLA master patterns and cast urethane molds. I took advantage of the plane ticket to visit family and friends in the area, and found out that Phillip Bloom and Mitch from Planet5D.com are hosting a Hybrid DSLR meetup in Venice Beach.

Hybrid DSLRs, for those unfamiliar with them, are the latest evolution in photojournalistic tools. They allow the filming of video, often in hi-def, on a digital SLR body. Because of the large sensor size, large pixel site, and often resolution reduction employed to generate the 1080p frames, the image quality on the video is often much less noisier than what can be squeezed out of a high end video camera. Also, inherent with the use of a DSLR body for shooting video is the ability for these bodies to change lenses and maintain good control over depth of field.

This means that for the first time, indy film-makers can chase that shallow DOF film look without the use of expensive lighting trucks and 35mm film cameras. Although the movement is in its infancy, a small industry is springing up around this class of cameras (and as an enterprising engineer, I am wondering what I can do to grab a slice of that pie). There is also a very strong DIY movement too for the less affluent film makers.

Here are some of the rigs present at the meetup:

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Here’s your most basic HDSLR rig. Virtually everyone shooting video does so by manually pulling focus, so an LCD hood is pretty essential. This is a Zacuto Z-Finder hood – and quite frankly after playing with all the options out there, you really get what you pay for. These retail for $299 – not cheap – about the cost of an inexpensive prime – but the magnified LCD fills one’s field of view and really allows one to pull focus.

The Zacuto comes with a die-cut VHB adhesive backed mounting flange that sticks onto the back of the LCD. Once stuck there, it can be removed, at the expense of breaking the flange. New flanges are $20.00.

As much of a fan as I am in DIYing; this is something that I’ll have to buy if I choose to go this route. I simply do not possess the optical engineering skills to design something like this.

In this particular case, some sort of directional mic with a windsock is attached to the hotshoe.

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Moving onto looking at pull-focuses: here’s the DFocus pull focus system is designed by aerospace engineer David Aldrich in his free time. My kinda guy! :-) . At about $150.00 it’s the cheapest pull-focus system out there. Since I don’t have regular access to a mill, I will have to buy one of these systems as well. Might as well support the little guy. Jag35.com carries these.

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Here’s another option for focus monitoring while pulling focus. This gentlemen is mounting a portable LCD monitor to a hotshoe to miniball head adapter. There are modifications out there to put a sunscreen on the LCD as well so that it is daylight readable. This particular LCD monitor was purchased on Planet 5D forum group buys and comes from some generic factory in China.

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On the other extreme end, ViewFinder LLC demonstrated their fly-by-wire radio controlled pull focus system. A RF link between the control module here drives a servo-motor setup. If you have to ask, you probably can’t afford it. That system costs more than my 5D Mk II – for the pull focus alone.

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The rest of ViewFinder LLC’s stuff is equally … well crafted. See those silver connectors? Those are LEMO connectors. Swiss made, precision medical grade connectors. Idenitfy those as such publicly, and the engineer who designed that system will size you up and see how good our engineering skillz are. These guys also build accessories for the Red Camera folks – so they are doing some very high end work. All their support cages are billet CNC machined.

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A really cool feature of ViewFinderLLC is their remote video start switch, positioned near the user’s thumb in the grip setup above. Apparently, on the 5Dii, putting it in 2 second timer mode, and configuring the live view screen to video only will start the video recording if the “shutter release” IR signal is received from a Canon RC1 remote unit. Now I’ll have to find a RC1 and a way to reverse engineer that IR signal…

Here are a few more of the big boy rigs:

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Most of these rigs consists of a pair of rails, onto which the camera body, lens adapter / DOF adapter, lens, pull focus system, and a matt box system to control flare mounted on a pair of 15mm rails. Stainless and carbon fiber are the material of choice here for building these rigs. Kinda like expensive Legos, I imagine. Actually, the only thing expensive about these rigs is the machining. Everyone is billet CNCing the clamps, when an extrusion tool would be cheaper. No one thinks that an extrusion tool is worth the effort to do, and the MOQ on an extrusion is high. On the other hand – by CNC machining the parts, the costs are kept high, so it locks out the more budget-conscious folks. Talk about a Catch-22 situation.

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Closeup of the battery reveals it to be a generic Li-Ion pack. That I certainly can build…

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Here’s a home-made camera stabilizer, using copper pipes, washers for weight, and a Traxx monster truck universal joint for the swivel. It’s very twitchy, as far as stabilization goes. I am not sure if this is a design path that I want to go down; I’m going to try a silicone grease dampened design first.

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Another great rig, featuring a rifle stock and a Zacuto finder again. These Zacuto units are quite popular.

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Here’s Hunter’s slide rail system. This allows the camera to slide laterally during a shot. This particular system uses TGP (Turned Ground and Polished) steel rails with an oil filled bronze linear bearing. It slides really smoothly.

Slider rail

Here’s Yaro’s version of the same thing. I asked him if it was DIYed and he gave me a strange look. Turns out someone online builds them and sells ‘em. I pointed out that they were all stock 8020 extrusion parts.

For those interested; the parts in questions are:

1020 extrusion piece (base rail – avail up to 140+” long)

Slider (linear bearing) appears to be part # 6535.
This section of the 8020 catalog has all the linear slider components, along with the replacement UHMW inserts for the bearing slides, for those of you going the DIY route.

While we are on the subject of camera slides and camera dollies, here’s a hack to convert an IKEA shelf piece into a camera dolly track system:

In the DIY spirit, here’s a 3D photo / video system, rocking twin 7Ds with nifty fifties. Note the use of the 80/20 profiles for spacing the cameras:

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There as so much gear floating around, even carrying my “full combat load” I honestly felt like an iPhone shooter at a UW garage shoot. So it was refreshing to finally see someone with *JUST* a 5D Mk II :-)

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And finally, the overhead cam group shot:

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A big thanks to Phillip Bloom for putting it together and Planet5D for helping to spread the word!

[Prototyping] – Something you don’t see every day – an SLA machine in action

March 10th, 2010

Now here’s something you don’t see everyday: an SLA machine in action.

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The machine in question is a 3D Systems Viper high resolution unit. I used a long exposure on a tripod to capture the actual laser beam tracing the part; the laser is a diode pumped solid state Nd:YVO4 100mW laser. For those of you unfamiliar with how SLA process works, it works like this:

1) A computer solid model is sliced into thin slices, between 0.002″ to 0.003″ thick. All the newer machines are 0.003″ or better in Z-resolution.

2) A laser then traces the cross section in a vat of photopolymer. Okay, by photo-polymer, I mean, a vat of very expensive goo – where the laser touches the goo, the goo turns into plastic. How expensive? I’ve heard that when it first came onto the market, resins were about $5000 – $6000 per gallon. They have since came down in price, but suffice to say it’s a very expensive proposition.

3) After each layer is formed, the platform in the tank drops by a build layer thickness and the goo flows over the part, readying the next layer to be drawn.

4) At the end of the build the platform gets raised again and the goo drains off the part, leaving you with a solid object.

These are very expensive machines – starting price of one of these is in the quarter-million dollar range, and the laser only lasts so many hours before it has to be replaced. Needless to say, unless you’re keeping the machine *very* busy, just the depreciation would eat you alive.

[Engineering] – Now *THIS* is marketing, in a nutshell

March 2nd, 2010

This XKCD cartoon sums it up about marketing oneself:


[Photography] – Light Painting cars – 3rd time’s the charm!

February 28th, 2010

Friday night after game night with the boys, I stopped off at a park in Redmond to attempt another attempt at light painting. It was raining, so the ground was nice and wet. Of course, no sooner than I had set up the camera a King County sheriff came flying up the road and pulled into the parking lot across the street. The cop had enough sense of humor to let me setup all my lights and camera gear first, before driving up and turning on the disco lights *WHILE* I was taking my picture and telling me that I’m not allowed to be in the park after dark (even though there were no posted signs). I desaturated the colors so I won’t get the amber hazard lights in my shots here:

Spirit_of_Adventure

Next night I went to a dog park up on Aurora. Last year I dated this girl, whose roommate can be charitably described as “socially maladjusted and less than pleasant to be around”. In an attempt to ease relationship a bit I tried a little bit of “BBQ diplomacy” by hosting a small BBQ and inviting her (the roommate) along. Well, the BBQ diplomacy failed – some people are just difficult and mean in nature – but I did get something positive out of that afternoon. The photographer in me realized that the parking lot had no street lights and thus would be a low-ambient place for light painting cars…

Here’s an ambient light only, 90 second exposure to give you an idea how dark the place is:

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(The flash had slid off the hotshoe adapter, and thus refused to fire. It took me about a minute or so before I can get it reset, and by then I decided to stop the exposure to get a baseline.

Here’s with the SoftLighter up high:

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And a bit of lightroom tweak:

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For the most part I’m pretty happy with how these shots turned out. Moving forward, these would be the things I would try:

* Add a neutral density filter to the camera to further knock down the ambient
* Up the firepower of the strobes, probably to something along the lines of an Alien Bee
* Use a proper large softbox, to achieve more even lighting.
* Come equip with a better power source – maybe time to DIY a Li-Ion vagabond pack?
* Try flooding the asphalt to create a smoother surface for reflections.

By adding a neutral density filter, I should be able to find more places to be able to shoot from.

[Engineering] – And this is why we build prototypes…

February 28th, 2010
M4A1_Fail-6

Got my spacer block that I designed a few months ago. Forgot to measure and account for the undercut ledge on the quick release plate. Will have to file / dremel it off for test fit, before I try mating a clamp up to it. Oh well.

Note to self – don’t design stuff when tired and depressed.

[Engineering] – Laser cutter failure, flour costs more than the bread

February 28th, 2010

At work, virtually all my coworker have product development in their “DNA”. We are all creative types, who takes lots of pride in bringing a product from an idea to life. And so consequently, whenever we read about some new widget or tool, we’ve always tried to convince our boss that it would benefit the company tremendously, if only if we have the latest and greatest Super Machine 2000.

Our boss, who’s rarely wrong, always tell us that as design engineers, our time is the most valuable spent designing. “Whenever we need something, and need something quick, we just toss money at someone and have them bang it out and put it in a Fedex overnight box”.
My buddy Dave’s grandparents owns a laser engraver. They own a trophy engraving shop and laundromat down in Renton. It’s really wierd to think of a sweet old lady at the controls of an Epilog 20W CO2 laser system… but she doesreally good work. So the next time you need something engraved, check out the Puhich Dry Cleaners in Renton on 319 Main Ave. South.

I know what a 20W CO2 laser can do; it can do a lot more than mark plastic and burn through anodize layer on aluminum. There was a discussion thread on making lens cap holders, so I drew one up in Soldiworks real quick:

Laser_Fail

Here’s the test run in paper. So far so good, right?

Unfortunately, the laser engraver is running on Windows 98. It requires a firmware update before it can talk to anything past Win98, and there is always a risk of bricking a machine doing a firmware update. So we are stuck with a computer that works – abet a very slow one, with a parallel port printer connection. (I bet some of the folks I know had never seen one… they went the way of the dodo after USB became popular).

Complicating the problem is that the printer driver runs as a Corel Draw plugin. Corel Draw 8, to be exact. And even the earliest DXF that Solidworks can save the file in, the simple fillets on the drawings don’t quite come through – let alone the more complicated splines and polylines.

The example above worked okay, because the laser cut it out as a *Raster* art, instead of a vector art. But cutting in raster mode drastically drops the laser’s power output. And it’s not like you can run multiple passes over the same piece of PTFE either – the slow heat transfer of doing so just warps the plastic – and the results looked like someone tried cutting the material with a dull butter knife.

Obviously something like this, out of 3mm PMMA, will be a bit out of the question:

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So my options are:

1) Try to mitigate the risk of the current laser cutter’s firmware upgrade (maybe see if I can do a hardware replacement of the logic board, upgrade the computer to something snazzy, then retry the Solidworks -> laser cutter workflow.

2) Pay someone like Pololu online to do the laser cutting for me. Essentially, someone else will be eating part of my lunch if these products go on sale. Might be okay if there’s only a few parts, but I’ll have to rethink the design a little bit.

Turns out, RedWolf airsoft out of Hong Kong will happily sell me a 30mm silencer for about $US10.00. Aluminum barrel, both ends with a machined aluminum plug. They even put a 14mm CW thread on one end and 14mm CCW threads on the other, so out of the box, the dang thing will fit on just about every single airsoft gun out there.

In Hong Kong, we have a saying that “the flour costs more than the bread”. The term originated from the housing bubble days where the value of the land gets bid up so quickly that older apartment buildings prices are being outstripped by the land value of neighbouring lots, but it also applies to engineering and business where by some form of competitive advantage (and economies of scale), someone can build a product cheaper than you can even start sourcing raw materials.

Got a cool little bookmark for all my troubles with the laser cutter though…

[Photography] – More light painting cars

February 25th, 2010

So, after reviewing the shots from my previous exercise, I decided to make a few tweaks.

Andy’s hacked LED flashlight (the man stuck an 18650 Li-Ion cell inside a $2.99 keychain LED flash. God that thing is bright) worked pretty decently in the previous light painting exercise, so I figured I’d up the fire power. Ran to Harbor Freight during lunch and picked up a 1 million candlepower flashlight for $12.99.

First try was to set the camera’s white balance to tungsten (since that’s what flashlights are), camera on a tripod, f/8, ISO100, bulb mode, and lock the shutter open in a dark room. For the sake of learning, I painted one side of the car at a time:

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Here’s the front of my car

And the sides:

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And here’s the combined shot:

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There is some spillage of the light cone. Basically the parabolic reflector throws a pretty tight beam spot, but there’s some secondary reflection / refraction off the front lens cover that’s lighting up stuff I don’t care to light up.

A quick trip to the mail room for an envelope or two, and a bit of packaging tape, solved that problem:

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Results:

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Next, I set up my Photek softlighter with the secondary diffuser, and hoisted it up high on my light stand. I really need a sturdier stand, or something with a counterweight to help hold this up. By lighting from up high, I am hoping to eliminate the hot spot on the bodywork. Something to do with family of angles and stuff. :-) .

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HEY! This is pretty good. Of course, a softbox is kinda like a shotgun approach to lighting, but at least there’s a choke in this shotgun barrel.

One thing to note (if you zoom in on the original) is that the light stand holding up the Photek Softlighter is visible in the shot. It’s being back-lit by the softlighter, and shows up as black lines in the reflections in the window.

I fixed this by installing the diffuser the “wrong” way. Normally I don’t do this, as it eliminates the ability to tilt the softlighter and blocks off the flash’s controls, but for what I’m doing here, it solved my problem nicely:

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I moved the car to shoot the driver’s side. While there, I also popped just the hazard lights by themselves, to give an idea of their contribution independently in the final image:

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With the “gimpy” configuration on the softlighter, I retry the overhead lighting:

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Not bad, but the sides are a bit dark. By the way, the strobe is at M1/16 and I’m firing 2-3 shots per second while slowly walking down the side of the car. Essentially turning my 60″ photek into a virtual, 8ft x 60″ strip lighting softbox. That’s powered by 4x AAs :-)

Another shot, this time using a 70-200 for a tighter crop and less background clutter:

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Looking nice. Need to do something about lighting the front surfaces though.

Here, after lighting the top and across the hood, I walked sideways across the front and held the softbox out to the side, aiming straight at the car.

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Ooops, ended up in the camera’s field of view. The edge of the photek lights up from secondary bounce; so I have to be extra careful. The next time around I’m going to try to find a proper softbox, and probably put a cardboard grid on it to control the spread more.

Now that I have a better understanding, I reshoot the sequence, being mindful to stay outside the camera’s field of view at all times with the side firing softbox:

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Straight out of camera, vantage point 1

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Straight out of camera, vantage point 2

To get the camera low enough for the second shot, I twisted the Manfrotto tripod around like a pretzel:

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And with a bit of editing in Lightroom:

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The only mistake? I got into the car to flick on the hazards, HID lights and fog lights. The suspension reacted accordingly, so there is a mismatch where the side turn indicator lit up, versus where the indicator lamp sat during nominal exposure. Nuts.

I think I’m at the point where I’ve outgrown this warehouse – the white walls really distract from the final image, but it offered me a nice, warm and dry place to practice my light painting. By the way, here’s a behind the scene shot of the “studio”:

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Total time: About 3 hours, after work, for about 20 images. And a lot of head scratching.

Now, I need to location scout for an outdoor place that’s got low ambient light…